It takes hope – or gall – to pad into a popular restaurant at 6 p.m. on Valentine’s Day (observed) without reservations. Yet up the few stone steps we went, through the familiar perpendicular doors to the hostess station beside the wide staircase. At A Tavola Trattoria at 47 Main Street in New Paltz, chef/owners Bonnie and Nathan Snow serve authentic pan-Italian fare composed from the best produce and proteins that the Hudson Valley has to offer à la minute. Their virtuosity will guarantee you a second date.